Chapter 3
Day 4 - Borobudur, Candi Pawon, Candi Mendut, Prambanan
It was deep night. Not many sounds were coming from outside. In spite the station was just on the opposite side of the road, no trains were running by. All was dark, peaceful and silent. Then, all of a sudden, at 4.30 a.m., a loud noise took us back from our dreams. It was my alarm clock. Early, it was very early, too early for somebody that was in his first night of real sleep after days. But we hadn’t other options than get up, get dressed and get out of the hotel. A tour was waiting for us, and we didn’t want to be late.
As soon as we stepped in the hotel hall a SUV stopped outside the doors and a young girl came into the hotel. She was Amber, our tour guide. We were invited to get into the car and soon we left Yogyakarta. Along the trip, in the deep of the night, Amber explained us that she was a “Tourism School” student and she was having a sort of internship as a tour guide. We felt immediately sorry for having forced both her and the driver to get up so early in the morning. The road got smaller and darker, but we kept on heading north/west. Our first stop would be the Borobudur.
As soon as we stepped in the hotel hall a SUV stopped outside the doors and a young girl came into the hotel. She was Amber, our tour guide. We were invited to get into the car and soon we left Yogyakarta. Along the trip, in the deep of the night, Amber explained us that she was a “Tourism School” student and she was having a sort of internship as a tour guide. We felt immediately sorry for having forced both her and the driver to get up so early in the morning. The road got smaller and darker, but we kept on heading north/west. Our first stop would be the Borobudur.
Borobudur
Borobudur, it sounds like a magical word to spell while wearing a pointed black hat on the head and swinging a magic wand. In reality it’s the name of, probably, the biggest Buddhist temple of the World. This is a hill-shaped temple like many of its time, and it’s the one that attracts more tourists in the whole Indonesia.
We reached the gates that the sun was about to rise and only a little group of other sleeping and yawning tourists were there standing while waiting to enter. Then, around 6.00, the gate was opened and we were let in. First we followed a nice walkway and then we reached the temple. It’s huge! Very huge!
The sky was brightening as minutes passed, but the temple was still far from being touched by the sun rays.
The sound of nature that was awakening, the sounds of our steps on the walkway. A little of mist was all around of us sheltering things in the distance from us. The we arrived. The Borobudur was there, just in front of us. It’s majestic! So wide that I couldn’t fit it in one single picture!
The architecture is quite complicate. We noticed the three different levels described in the guide books. The first group called Kamadhatu (the Human World) was made by two “steps” that formed a wide paved terrace. The second level, called Rapadhatu (the World between the Human World and the Gods Abode) was a series of five steep terraces. To give a sense of verticality on the outer-side of the terraces were built finely carved walls. Along the walls there were several niches in which were fitted different Buddha statues. On top of the fifth terrace started the third level, called Arupadhatu (representing the Gods Adobe), with three more concentric circular low and wide terraces. In these terraces were built several small perforated stupas each hosting a Buddha statue. The curious thing is that while the two lower levels of stupas have rhomboidal holes, the top one have square holes. The legend says that if you can touch one of the Buddha hosted inside the perforated stupas, he will bring lots of Good Luck. Of course, the stupas were designed in order to not let people to touch the Buddhas! In the centre of the Borobudur, on top of all the levels and stupas there is a single huge beautiful stupa.
It was still too dark to visit the bas reliefs on the Rapadhatu, so we went straight to the top of the temple. We made it just in time that dawn broke. The land was covered by a thick low layer of mist. The tall palm trees got through the mist and looked, from the high, like plants sticking out of a frozen lake. The as sun got higher and stronger, the mist started to disappear and a flat land of woods, housings and trees appeared all around of us.
A golden glow covered all of our surroundings turning both the land and the temple in different shades of warm yellow and orange. It was true magic staying there. It had been worth getting up so early to visit it! We spent some time there, just sitting and looking at the landscape. Far, just as hardly as to spot as a ghost in the mist, appeared the menacing huge shape of Mt. Merapi, an active volcano, with a thick huge column of smoke getting out of her mouth. It was a matter of minutes, then the daily haze, brightened by the sun sheltered her from sight. I did in time to picture her before she disappeared. It was like a magic island that appears before a sailor and before he can call his fellow, she disappears again. The legendary Avalon Island surely behaved in that same way. My faithful camera responded swift at my command and we managed to picture Mt. Merapi in a nice morning pinky picture. By the way, a couple of months later, the Mt. Merapi erupted causing a huge amount of damage to the surrounding areas.
We visited the temple. We started from the Arupadhatu with the many small stupas. Then, we visited Rapadhatu. Thanks to the descriptions in our guide books we managed to have a nice visit and to learn about what we were seeing carved in the stone. The temple, along with all the bas reliefs, is a true masterpiece of design and engineering!
The Sun got higher and higher. The black stones of the temple started to be very hot and we felt like being into a oven. So, after a long while in the temple grounds, we decided to leave the area and join Amber to move to our next stop that would be Candi Pawon.
We reached the gates that the sun was about to rise and only a little group of other sleeping and yawning tourists were there standing while waiting to enter. Then, around 6.00, the gate was opened and we were let in. First we followed a nice walkway and then we reached the temple. It’s huge! Very huge!
The sky was brightening as minutes passed, but the temple was still far from being touched by the sun rays.
The sound of nature that was awakening, the sounds of our steps on the walkway. A little of mist was all around of us sheltering things in the distance from us. The we arrived. The Borobudur was there, just in front of us. It’s majestic! So wide that I couldn’t fit it in one single picture!
The architecture is quite complicate. We noticed the three different levels described in the guide books. The first group called Kamadhatu (the Human World) was made by two “steps” that formed a wide paved terrace. The second level, called Rapadhatu (the World between the Human World and the Gods Abode) was a series of five steep terraces. To give a sense of verticality on the outer-side of the terraces were built finely carved walls. Along the walls there were several niches in which were fitted different Buddha statues. On top of the fifth terrace started the third level, called Arupadhatu (representing the Gods Adobe), with three more concentric circular low and wide terraces. In these terraces were built several small perforated stupas each hosting a Buddha statue. The curious thing is that while the two lower levels of stupas have rhomboidal holes, the top one have square holes. The legend says that if you can touch one of the Buddha hosted inside the perforated stupas, he will bring lots of Good Luck. Of course, the stupas were designed in order to not let people to touch the Buddhas! In the centre of the Borobudur, on top of all the levels and stupas there is a single huge beautiful stupa.
It was still too dark to visit the bas reliefs on the Rapadhatu, so we went straight to the top of the temple. We made it just in time that dawn broke. The land was covered by a thick low layer of mist. The tall palm trees got through the mist and looked, from the high, like plants sticking out of a frozen lake. The as sun got higher and stronger, the mist started to disappear and a flat land of woods, housings and trees appeared all around of us.
A golden glow covered all of our surroundings turning both the land and the temple in different shades of warm yellow and orange. It was true magic staying there. It had been worth getting up so early to visit it! We spent some time there, just sitting and looking at the landscape. Far, just as hardly as to spot as a ghost in the mist, appeared the menacing huge shape of Mt. Merapi, an active volcano, with a thick huge column of smoke getting out of her mouth. It was a matter of minutes, then the daily haze, brightened by the sun sheltered her from sight. I did in time to picture her before she disappeared. It was like a magic island that appears before a sailor and before he can call his fellow, she disappears again. The legendary Avalon Island surely behaved in that same way. My faithful camera responded swift at my command and we managed to picture Mt. Merapi in a nice morning pinky picture. By the way, a couple of months later, the Mt. Merapi erupted causing a huge amount of damage to the surrounding areas.
We visited the temple. We started from the Arupadhatu with the many small stupas. Then, we visited Rapadhatu. Thanks to the descriptions in our guide books we managed to have a nice visit and to learn about what we were seeing carved in the stone. The temple, along with all the bas reliefs, is a true masterpiece of design and engineering!
The Sun got higher and higher. The black stones of the temple started to be very hot and we felt like being into a oven. So, after a long while in the temple grounds, we decided to leave the area and join Amber to move to our next stop that would be Candi Pawon.
Candi Pawon
In Bhasa the word Candi (pronounced in English like “Chandy”) means “temple”. So, Candi Pawon means “Pawon Temple”.
This small temple rises at less than 2 km southwest of the Borobudur as the crow flies. The structure of the temple is quite simple. It has a square stone base that people can access ascending a short stairway. The same stairway is flanked by serpent-looking parapets. I wonder if they represent two Naga snakes. In the middle of this small terrace rises the small temple made of a single stone room topped by small stupas. The outside walls are finely carved in bas reliefs representing Boddhisattvas, Taras and mythological creatures.
Scholars have some theories about the origin of the name. The name “Pawon” in Javanese could mean “The place that contains dust”, referring the chance that it might be a King’s burial ground. A sort of tomb that would host the ashes of the Kings. The other theory is that, seeing that locals call this temple Bajranalan, the name could come from the names Vajra (the Sanskrit name of a sort of Buddhist ceremonial rod with points on both ends that represents a Lightning bolt) and Anala (that means fire). Following local traditions, people that go to the Borobudur, should stop first by this temple to get purified.
This small temple rises at less than 2 km southwest of the Borobudur as the crow flies. The structure of the temple is quite simple. It has a square stone base that people can access ascending a short stairway. The same stairway is flanked by serpent-looking parapets. I wonder if they represent two Naga snakes. In the middle of this small terrace rises the small temple made of a single stone room topped by small stupas. The outside walls are finely carved in bas reliefs representing Boddhisattvas, Taras and mythological creatures.
Scholars have some theories about the origin of the name. The name “Pawon” in Javanese could mean “The place that contains dust”, referring the chance that it might be a King’s burial ground. A sort of tomb that would host the ashes of the Kings. The other theory is that, seeing that locals call this temple Bajranalan, the name could come from the names Vajra (the Sanskrit name of a sort of Buddhist ceremonial rod with points on both ends that represents a Lightning bolt) and Anala (that means fire). Following local traditions, people that go to the Borobudur, should stop first by this temple to get purified.
Candi Mendut
We left the temple and we moved to the next temple, the Candi Mendut. This temple, which is older than the Borobudur and Pawan is in straight line, about 1 Km far, southwest of the Candi Pawan. The three temples lay in a straight line, and probably this has some sacred meaning. This temple is made of a stone base accessible by a very short stairway. On the centre of this stone terrace rises the temple. This one is larger and looks heavier than the Pawan and lacks of the stupas on the top that, according to the scholars, should be there. Local people are quite bound to this temple and say that praying in this temple grants miracles and cleanse from illnesses.
Once a year, at the full moon of May-June, Buddhist people perform the Vesak (or Waisak) a procession from the Mendut passes by the Pawan and ends at the Borobudur. Along the way people performs praying and “Pradakshina” the circumambulation around the temples.
We visited this temple and we liked it. This temple is quite small and it took very short time. Then we left the temple grounds and we went to the next one, the Prambanan.
Once a year, at the full moon of May-June, Buddhist people perform the Vesak (or Waisak) a procession from the Mendut passes by the Pawan and ends at the Borobudur. Along the way people performs praying and “Pradakshina” the circumambulation around the temples.
We visited this temple and we liked it. This temple is quite small and it took very short time. Then we left the temple grounds and we went to the next one, the Prambanan.
Prambanan and Candi Sewu
We had lunch with Fried Rice and Satay. These were ramadan days and in the daytime most of the restaurants kept close. We had luck that we found one along a street and we had quite good food there.
We arrived at the Prambanan and we had to wait for some time in the waiting room. Here we were free to look at the indoor junk shop and to freely browse internet. Then, after this unexplainable wait, we were granted the access to the temple grounds.
Usually tourists call the whole area “Prambanan”, but at the ears of a archaeologist sounds more or less like blasphemy. This area as a core temple called Prambanan and then several others. Most of the temple exist only in that invisible dimension precluded at the non-archaeologist folks, while some are real, made of stone and with different names.
Nine towers. They look proud. Black. Carved along the way, and topped with stone spikes that get out of their pine-cone shape. The main one are six, three bigger that represent the three Hindu main Gods (Vishnu, Brama and Shiva) and three smaller that represent their rides. The area that surround the temples is covered in ruins of ancient towers. Here in the ancient past were rising hundred of small towers.
The visit of the towers is very interesting and using a good guide book you can spot really interesting sights. For example, in the Shiva Temple, which is the bigger one, there is also a statue of the Goddess Durga. In the years the statue was named as “Princess Rara Jonggrang” or “The Slender Virgin”. This statue is connected with the famous “Legend of Rara Jonggrang” about the origins of the Prambanan Temple complex.
We arrived at the Prambanan and we had to wait for some time in the waiting room. Here we were free to look at the indoor junk shop and to freely browse internet. Then, after this unexplainable wait, we were granted the access to the temple grounds.
Usually tourists call the whole area “Prambanan”, but at the ears of a archaeologist sounds more or less like blasphemy. This area as a core temple called Prambanan and then several others. Most of the temple exist only in that invisible dimension precluded at the non-archaeologist folks, while some are real, made of stone and with different names.
Nine towers. They look proud. Black. Carved along the way, and topped with stone spikes that get out of their pine-cone shape. The main one are six, three bigger that represent the three Hindu main Gods (Vishnu, Brama and Shiva) and three smaller that represent their rides. The area that surround the temples is covered in ruins of ancient towers. Here in the ancient past were rising hundred of small towers.
The visit of the towers is very interesting and using a good guide book you can spot really interesting sights. For example, in the Shiva Temple, which is the bigger one, there is also a statue of the Goddess Durga. In the years the statue was named as “Princess Rara Jonggrang” or “The Slender Virgin”. This statue is connected with the famous “Legend of Rara Jonggrang” about the origins of the Prambanan Temple complex.
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The Legend of Rara Jonggrang
(source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rara_Jonggrang_(legend) ) The legend tells the story about two ancient and neighbouring kingdoms in Java, Pengging and Boko. Pengging was prosperous, and wisely ruled by its king Prabu Damar Moyo who had a son named Bandung Bondowoso. By contrast, Boko was ruled by a cruel man-eating giant named Prabu Boko, supported by another giant Patih Gupolo. Despite his unpleasant nature, Prabu Boko had a beautiful daughter named Rara Jonggrang. The story relates that Prabu Boko desired to expand his kingdom, and so began training an army and raising taxes for an invasion of Pengging. His forces launch a surprise attack on Pengging, and the ensuring war causes devastation and famine on both sides. In order to defeat the invader, Prabu Damar Moyo sends his son Bandung Bondowoso to fight Prabu Boko. After a furious battle, Prabu Boko is killed by the prince's supernatural powers. His assistant, the giant Patih Gupolo, leads his armies away from the battlefield in defeat. Returning to Boko Palace, Patih Gupolo tells princess Rara Jonggrang of the death of her father. The princess is heartbroken, but before she can recover from her grief the Pengging army besieges and captures the palace. Prince Bandung Bondowoso is mesmerized by the beauty of the mourning princess and propose marriage, but his offer is swiftly rejected. Bandung Bondowoso insists on the union, and finally Rara Jonggrang agrees on two impossible conditions: first the prince must build a well named Jalatunda, and second, he must construct a thousand temples in only one night. The lovestruck prince agrees, and immediately starts work on the well. Using his supernatural powers once again, the prince swiftly finishes construction and proudly displays his work for the princess. As a trick, she urges him to enter the well and when he does so, Patih Gupolo piles stones into it and buries him alive. With great effort Bandung Bondowoso escapes, but his love for the princess is so strong that he forgives her the attempt on his life. To fulfill the second condition, the prince enters into meditation and conjures up a multitude of demon spirits from the earth. With their help he builds the first 999 temples and starts work on the final one. To thwart his efforts the princess and her maids light a fire in the east and begin pounding rice, a traditional dawn activity. Fooled into thinking the sun is about to rise, the spirits flee back into the earth leaving the last temple unfinished. The prince is furious when he learns of this deception, and places a curse on Rara Jonggrang which turns her into a stone statue. In this way she herself becomes a feature of the final temple, completing its construction and fulfilling the conditions for their marriage. |
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Near these temples there is another temple complex called “Candi Sewu” which, still according the “Legend of Rara Jonggrang”, should mean something like “The 1000th Temple”. We entered the Candi Sewu ground and we visited it. The area is slightly larger than the Prambanan one, but the temple itself is quite smaller. This temple, when we visited it, was closed for works, so, we couldn’t enter it. The best sight is from the road that takes to it. In fact, from the gates there is a walkway guarded by giant statues of demons that lead to it. As I wrote, the surrounding area is covered by a large spread of ruins of ancient towers. I’m sure that when the works will be finished, the Candi Sewu will be truly amazing.
Yogyakarta
We came back to Yogyakarta that was late afternoon. We had time to swim in the hotel pool and lay on the pool side benches a bit. The same evening we went out for dinner at the same place where we went the previous night and then we came back at the hotel early. We needed many hours of sleep because we were sure that the next day it would be very hard.
In the night time a loud sound, like an explosion, shook the entire hotel. I woke up of a sudden while the Americans of the next room started to cream like crazy “What the F..k!”. I wonder if it was the Merapi Mountain saying “See you again” to us, or something else.
In the night time a loud sound, like an explosion, shook the entire hotel. I woke up of a sudden while the Americans of the next room started to cream like crazy “What the F..k!”. I wonder if it was the Merapi Mountain saying “See you again” to us, or something else.