Chapter 10
Phuket – The resurrected island
The third main waypoint of my trip was an island that I already know quite well. Its name is well known around the world, both for the good that is connected with it, and also for a dark spot in its past. Its name is Koh Phuket, but most of the people just call it Phuket (in Thai ภูเก็ต). This is one of the biggest islands of Thailand, but even though it's actually an island, it's so close to the main land that you can reach it by just crossing a bridge. The island is a province itself (Phuket province) and it's split into two main administrative parts which names are “Talad Yai” and “Talad Nuea”. The main city of the island is Phuket Town that houses also the administrative offices.
This island has much to offer to tourists, from sports activities to very beautiful trips in the surrounding areas. For this reason most of the tourists coming to Thailand are attracted to this place. Unluckily, the heavy presence of the tourists has changed the face of the island, and now the tourists can't find here the true Thailand anymore. On the other hand, Thailand itself receives a great income from the tourism in this place.
The beautiful Phuket some years ago became famous worldwide after probably the most destructive natural-disaster of the last centuries. It was the 26th December 2004, when, after a quake in Sumatra, Indonesia, a Tsunami struck over the coasts of the countries facing the Indian Ocean. Thailand was hit badly and Phuket, with all the nearby islands, received it first hand. It was high season and, when it happened, countless people were enjoying holidays there. Many people died that day. Now you can still find memorials of that happening, but, surprisingly, all was rebuilt and you'll hardly find traces of the destruction that happened that day. Thailand covered with a smile (and a lot of concrete, bricks, neon lights and paint) the tears and blood that were shed that day. Now the scars on the islands can't be seen anymore though they are deep in the hearts of its people. But it takes little for these survivors to start telling you about how they survived that day. Every story is so very similar and in the same way so very different but always touching. Now the island is trying to clean herself from her past, and it's becoming again a beautiful Thai gem, and I suggest to everybody to visit it.
While travelling through the island, you can chose to follow one of the coastal streets, or to cross it by the main one that runs down the centre. I’ve always taken this second way. This year I did it with a minibus from the Phuket international airport. I first had to wait ages for it to be full of people, then it left to reach the main cities. Almost all the people on board were heading to Patong Beach, the capital city of the Phuket nightlife. The guy sitting next to me was an Italo-Brazilian boy. Then there were also some Thai and some guys from Qatar. The conversation on board wasn't very interesting, and the Brazilian guy, after having asked me so much information about Patong Beach, also invited me to Sao Paulo, Brazil.
The landscape outside changed from tropical hills to some flat lands mainly of rice fields waving in the gentle tropical breeze. The street over the flatlands was followed by an almost uninterrupted line of houses on the sides of the streets. Then, all of a sudden, the driver stopped. He asked us to get down out of the minivan, and asked us to enter a travel agency. It's an old trick. In fact, these drivers are paid by the agencies to bring them some tourists to sell them some overpriced stay at a hotel or some trip. This time, I just entered the shop, I said “Hi” and I went out. I wasn't interested in getting scammed by these people.
After about half an hour we left that place and we headed south. Slowly I started to recognise the places that I saw around me. And then, out of nowhere, in the middle of a round point, there they were. Standing proud, sword in hand and with beautiful faces, the two sisters Thao Thep Kasattri and Thao Sri Soontorn, heroines of Phuket, watching over their land as a reminder of honour, courage and love for the country. This monument is also called “The Heroines Monument”, and it's dedicated to two sisters. In the distant 1785 the Burmese troops invaded Phuket. The Thai troops faced them proudly, but were going to face a bloody defeat. In this way, two sisters called Chan and Mook wore men’s uniforms and formed a guerrilla movement against the Burmese troop. It's quite a famous story of when they asked many women to dress as men soldiers and marched through the cities toward the enemy. The Burmese troops thought that there were Thai reinforcements and started to retreat. The invasion lasted three weeks, and in the end, Phuket was again free. The king Rama I was so impressed by them, he gave them both the honorific names of Thao Thep Kasattri and Thao Sri Soontorn. Now these two sisters are the symbol of Phuket. Their statue is in the centre of the island (you can see it in the second picture), and when you reach them, it means that you're half way from the airport to the south of the island. Patong beach is not very far from there.
After passing by the monument, we went down south for some more kilometres, and then we turned right. From the central almost flat land we climbed some small hills and then, just behind of them, we reached Patong Beach.
If you look at it from the top of the hill, you could have the impression that it is a crazy fast-growing southern-Asian city planned by a blind architect. But then, when you go down the hills and you reach it, and you see it from close, with its narrow streets, the fast growing high buildings and how it changes when the sun sets, you'll start believing for real that it's a crazy fast-growing southern-Asian city planned by a blind architect. There are two main parallel streets that cross it, and they are connected by some, desperately few narrow ones. It may happen that to reach the coastal one from the parallel one you'll have to walk a long way before finding a connection.
I was in this place the year before, and this place had changed its face quite fast. I was surprised by how it had changed, and the problem is that, for my taste, the changes were for the worst. Anyway, I found my hotel easily. It was the Lamai Inn hotel, the same one where I was a year before. As I entered I noticed that the desk people were different than the ones before. I did all the check-in procedures, and then came the “luggage guy”. I told him that I didn't need his help, but he grabbed my backpack. Seeing that I had already spent a lot of money on this trip, I didn't want to have to tip him too as I could afford to take my backpack to my room by myself. So, I took back my backpack and told him to not touch it. He grabbed it again. I told him once more to not touch my backpack, but he carried it on his shoulders (and his face was like he had an elephant walking on his back) and the desk girl told me to let him do it as it was his job. So, we went to my room. With relief he pulled my backpack down and started to show the room to me. In a rush way I told him that I didn't need his help and to leave the room. He went, but after one-two minutes, I heard knocks on my door and somebody saying “Sir!” and again “Sir!” Opened and he was again there. I asked him “What?” and he answered “You give me 500 Baat! (about 12 Euro)”. I told him “No way”. He kept on asking saying that he brought my backpack to my room and I told him, again in a rush way that I told him to not touch my backpack, and he should give me 500 baat for bothering me. He looked shocked at my reaction and went away. I locked the door and I started to unpack my backpack. After a week in the wet room in Chaweng my trekking boots were still wet from Kampuchea, and I placed them on my balcony, hoping that the strong sun of the Andaman sea could dry them for good. Then I got ready and I went to the beach.
As soon as I reached the mud-grey beach and I saw the water, I noticed that water had a very weird brown-greenish colour with some things floating on it, even if I couldn't recognise what they were. I stared at that sewer for a few minutes, and after I noticed the third or fourth swarm of jellyfish-looking (used) condoms floating before me I decided to not to touch that water, and I went back to take some sun.
While I was there, under the tropical sun, listening to my MP3 player I started to consider a few things. Unluckily I was distracted by a trashy scene. There was a guy, about 25, probably from Qatar showing his girlfriend how he was good at fighting. He was showing some “fighting” moves that were more likely from some videogame than from a proper training. Yes, I recognised when my old instructor almost killed a guy that was doing the same things during the training, just to show, how to NOT fight. After some of his flying kicks that made him fall miserably with his fat butt on the ground, he challenged his girlfriend to show how macho he was, but it was his girlfriend that kicked his butt for good (a couple of those elbow strikes and the big boy was back to sucking his pacifier). After this both silly and disturbing interruption, I came back to my considerations. First of all, I had already been away from home for three weeks and I knew that I still had 4-5 days left and I'd be back to Italy. To my reality. I counted the things that I'd seen on this trip. All the good and the bad ones. Yes, the trip was still going on, but I already thought that I had enough to recount to fill many pages of my diary. In the meanwhile, the sun was slowly going down before me, on the Andaman sea. For a moment, it looked like a golden circle going to the horizon, or maybe like a huge fireball falling on that sewer-like sea, and at this thought I started to wonder if that dirty slimy liquid could start a flame. This silly thought brought me back to the reason of why I was there. I mean, it wasn't a so deep a contemplation, like, those philosophical questions (imagine me with long beard and dressed like an ancient Greek) like “Where are we going?” and “Why are we here?” but more easily (Ok, now you can think again of me shaved and dressed like a normal guy) “Why the hell did I come back to Patong if I already knew how it is?”. The first answer was that I don't learn from my mistakes, followed by the other consideration, that I have to be really dumb. But then I sorted a short list of alternatives, which was also agreed by some expats met on the way. Before listing these places I've to say that the first place where NOT spend holidays is Phuket Town as there is NOT a beach there. Then, continuing, I could pick between the following places. I'll write a list of the main places of attraction from north to south with written near their more important attractions. They are:
1. Bang Tao – This is a small village that is advertised for the clean sea and the opportunity to see sunsets on the beach while feeling the soft sand between your toes. That's wonderful. But the problem is that the sandy-toes-sunset-watching is the only night activity of the place. Anyway the beautiful water is attracting.
2. Surin – It's a small village with a nice beach. There are few venues that are open mainly in the high season, but at other times of the year it may look deserted.
3. Kamala Beach – It's a fast growing place even still far from the reality of Patong Beach. This place is famous for the “Fantasea” show, where are shown, with wonderful choreography some tales from the history of Thailand. It's worth being considered for a holiday in Koh Phuket.
4. Patong Beach – This is a fast growing city that is one of the main cores of the Thai nightlife, even if, lately it’s become a bit extreme. The water is a real sewer and I suggest that, if a tourist doesn't want to go far from the Phuket, there is a beautiful beach called “Paradise Beach” where the sea is still beautiful. Anyway, the real reason that attracts people to Patong is the nightlife, but on the other hand, also many drugs are dealt there and also many (perhaps too many) venues offer exclusive attractions for the sex tourists. The authorities have also announced that Patong is the place with highest HIV diffusion in Thailand, so, the sex tourism reasons to go, to me, seem more like suicidal. As I’ve written, many discos and entertainments are there and I like it.
5. Karon Beach – It was my second choice. This village has some nightlife and still far much quieter than Patong Beach. The sea is acceptable and it's cheaper than Patong. If I went back to Phuket, I could pick my next hotel in Karon Beach. It's good also for little kids as there you can find the “Dino Park” a dinosaurs-themed park.
6. Kata Beach – It's a village made of almost only hotels, the venues are just few and the relaxed nightlife closes early.
7. Nai Harn Beach – A small place with an almost non existent nightlife and fairly good sea.
8. Chalong – It's a small village in the south-eastern side of the island and in the past was chosen mainly by yachters. There are only few venues, even if lately it's starting to grow a little bit.
As you can see, after considering these alternatives, and seeing that I was travelling alone, I decided to go to the place where I had better chances to have fun both in the day and at night.
The sun took a short time to go down, and I had to go back to my hotel to shower and get ready for the night. After a quick shower I went back into the streets. The beautiful thing about Patong is that there's an excessive number of travellers desks, so you can easily find some nice places to visit. I took some time to read some leaflets and in the end I decided to visit some places that I hadn’t visited yet, and to go back to an island that I hadn't seen well the last year as I’d had bad weather. So, I entered the Pub/tourist desk and with a beer for myself and one for the desk girl I started to bargain for the trip. This time, believe it or not, I got 50% off for a trip to the beautiful “Raya Island”. After having paid for my trip I left the place and I went to check the restaurants out. Soon I found a new Japanese restaurant, so, seeing that in Thailand Japanese food is so cheap, I decided to have my first dinner there. Last time that I was in a Japanese restaurant in my city I had to pay the outrageous sum of 40 Euros. In this Patong restaurant I ate MUCH more and I paid something like 6 Euros. After my dinner, I went into the party streets and I became part of this nightlife. I like Patong beach after the sunset as much as I don't like it when it's daytime. So, as a first night, it was great. I went back to the hotel, it was late and the desk girl interrogated me about my evening and my plans for the next days. Seeing that, as it often happens, they can offer some “fake deals” asking to introduce you some “friend” working in some pub or tourist desk, I didn't give her much information. I wished her goodnight and I went to sleep. I was looking forward to a great trip the next day.
This island has much to offer to tourists, from sports activities to very beautiful trips in the surrounding areas. For this reason most of the tourists coming to Thailand are attracted to this place. Unluckily, the heavy presence of the tourists has changed the face of the island, and now the tourists can't find here the true Thailand anymore. On the other hand, Thailand itself receives a great income from the tourism in this place.
The beautiful Phuket some years ago became famous worldwide after probably the most destructive natural-disaster of the last centuries. It was the 26th December 2004, when, after a quake in Sumatra, Indonesia, a Tsunami struck over the coasts of the countries facing the Indian Ocean. Thailand was hit badly and Phuket, with all the nearby islands, received it first hand. It was high season and, when it happened, countless people were enjoying holidays there. Many people died that day. Now you can still find memorials of that happening, but, surprisingly, all was rebuilt and you'll hardly find traces of the destruction that happened that day. Thailand covered with a smile (and a lot of concrete, bricks, neon lights and paint) the tears and blood that were shed that day. Now the scars on the islands can't be seen anymore though they are deep in the hearts of its people. But it takes little for these survivors to start telling you about how they survived that day. Every story is so very similar and in the same way so very different but always touching. Now the island is trying to clean herself from her past, and it's becoming again a beautiful Thai gem, and I suggest to everybody to visit it.
While travelling through the island, you can chose to follow one of the coastal streets, or to cross it by the main one that runs down the centre. I’ve always taken this second way. This year I did it with a minibus from the Phuket international airport. I first had to wait ages for it to be full of people, then it left to reach the main cities. Almost all the people on board were heading to Patong Beach, the capital city of the Phuket nightlife. The guy sitting next to me was an Italo-Brazilian boy. Then there were also some Thai and some guys from Qatar. The conversation on board wasn't very interesting, and the Brazilian guy, after having asked me so much information about Patong Beach, also invited me to Sao Paulo, Brazil.
The landscape outside changed from tropical hills to some flat lands mainly of rice fields waving in the gentle tropical breeze. The street over the flatlands was followed by an almost uninterrupted line of houses on the sides of the streets. Then, all of a sudden, the driver stopped. He asked us to get down out of the minivan, and asked us to enter a travel agency. It's an old trick. In fact, these drivers are paid by the agencies to bring them some tourists to sell them some overpriced stay at a hotel or some trip. This time, I just entered the shop, I said “Hi” and I went out. I wasn't interested in getting scammed by these people.
After about half an hour we left that place and we headed south. Slowly I started to recognise the places that I saw around me. And then, out of nowhere, in the middle of a round point, there they were. Standing proud, sword in hand and with beautiful faces, the two sisters Thao Thep Kasattri and Thao Sri Soontorn, heroines of Phuket, watching over their land as a reminder of honour, courage and love for the country. This monument is also called “The Heroines Monument”, and it's dedicated to two sisters. In the distant 1785 the Burmese troops invaded Phuket. The Thai troops faced them proudly, but were going to face a bloody defeat. In this way, two sisters called Chan and Mook wore men’s uniforms and formed a guerrilla movement against the Burmese troop. It's quite a famous story of when they asked many women to dress as men soldiers and marched through the cities toward the enemy. The Burmese troops thought that there were Thai reinforcements and started to retreat. The invasion lasted three weeks, and in the end, Phuket was again free. The king Rama I was so impressed by them, he gave them both the honorific names of Thao Thep Kasattri and Thao Sri Soontorn. Now these two sisters are the symbol of Phuket. Their statue is in the centre of the island (you can see it in the second picture), and when you reach them, it means that you're half way from the airport to the south of the island. Patong beach is not very far from there.
After passing by the monument, we went down south for some more kilometres, and then we turned right. From the central almost flat land we climbed some small hills and then, just behind of them, we reached Patong Beach.
If you look at it from the top of the hill, you could have the impression that it is a crazy fast-growing southern-Asian city planned by a blind architect. But then, when you go down the hills and you reach it, and you see it from close, with its narrow streets, the fast growing high buildings and how it changes when the sun sets, you'll start believing for real that it's a crazy fast-growing southern-Asian city planned by a blind architect. There are two main parallel streets that cross it, and they are connected by some, desperately few narrow ones. It may happen that to reach the coastal one from the parallel one you'll have to walk a long way before finding a connection.
I was in this place the year before, and this place had changed its face quite fast. I was surprised by how it had changed, and the problem is that, for my taste, the changes were for the worst. Anyway, I found my hotel easily. It was the Lamai Inn hotel, the same one where I was a year before. As I entered I noticed that the desk people were different than the ones before. I did all the check-in procedures, and then came the “luggage guy”. I told him that I didn't need his help, but he grabbed my backpack. Seeing that I had already spent a lot of money on this trip, I didn't want to have to tip him too as I could afford to take my backpack to my room by myself. So, I took back my backpack and told him to not touch it. He grabbed it again. I told him once more to not touch my backpack, but he carried it on his shoulders (and his face was like he had an elephant walking on his back) and the desk girl told me to let him do it as it was his job. So, we went to my room. With relief he pulled my backpack down and started to show the room to me. In a rush way I told him that I didn't need his help and to leave the room. He went, but after one-two minutes, I heard knocks on my door and somebody saying “Sir!” and again “Sir!” Opened and he was again there. I asked him “What?” and he answered “You give me 500 Baat! (about 12 Euro)”. I told him “No way”. He kept on asking saying that he brought my backpack to my room and I told him, again in a rush way that I told him to not touch my backpack, and he should give me 500 baat for bothering me. He looked shocked at my reaction and went away. I locked the door and I started to unpack my backpack. After a week in the wet room in Chaweng my trekking boots were still wet from Kampuchea, and I placed them on my balcony, hoping that the strong sun of the Andaman sea could dry them for good. Then I got ready and I went to the beach.
As soon as I reached the mud-grey beach and I saw the water, I noticed that water had a very weird brown-greenish colour with some things floating on it, even if I couldn't recognise what they were. I stared at that sewer for a few minutes, and after I noticed the third or fourth swarm of jellyfish-looking (used) condoms floating before me I decided to not to touch that water, and I went back to take some sun.
While I was there, under the tropical sun, listening to my MP3 player I started to consider a few things. Unluckily I was distracted by a trashy scene. There was a guy, about 25, probably from Qatar showing his girlfriend how he was good at fighting. He was showing some “fighting” moves that were more likely from some videogame than from a proper training. Yes, I recognised when my old instructor almost killed a guy that was doing the same things during the training, just to show, how to NOT fight. After some of his flying kicks that made him fall miserably with his fat butt on the ground, he challenged his girlfriend to show how macho he was, but it was his girlfriend that kicked his butt for good (a couple of those elbow strikes and the big boy was back to sucking his pacifier). After this both silly and disturbing interruption, I came back to my considerations. First of all, I had already been away from home for three weeks and I knew that I still had 4-5 days left and I'd be back to Italy. To my reality. I counted the things that I'd seen on this trip. All the good and the bad ones. Yes, the trip was still going on, but I already thought that I had enough to recount to fill many pages of my diary. In the meanwhile, the sun was slowly going down before me, on the Andaman sea. For a moment, it looked like a golden circle going to the horizon, or maybe like a huge fireball falling on that sewer-like sea, and at this thought I started to wonder if that dirty slimy liquid could start a flame. This silly thought brought me back to the reason of why I was there. I mean, it wasn't a so deep a contemplation, like, those philosophical questions (imagine me with long beard and dressed like an ancient Greek) like “Where are we going?” and “Why are we here?” but more easily (Ok, now you can think again of me shaved and dressed like a normal guy) “Why the hell did I come back to Patong if I already knew how it is?”. The first answer was that I don't learn from my mistakes, followed by the other consideration, that I have to be really dumb. But then I sorted a short list of alternatives, which was also agreed by some expats met on the way. Before listing these places I've to say that the first place where NOT spend holidays is Phuket Town as there is NOT a beach there. Then, continuing, I could pick between the following places. I'll write a list of the main places of attraction from north to south with written near their more important attractions. They are:
1. Bang Tao – This is a small village that is advertised for the clean sea and the opportunity to see sunsets on the beach while feeling the soft sand between your toes. That's wonderful. But the problem is that the sandy-toes-sunset-watching is the only night activity of the place. Anyway the beautiful water is attracting.
2. Surin – It's a small village with a nice beach. There are few venues that are open mainly in the high season, but at other times of the year it may look deserted.
3. Kamala Beach – It's a fast growing place even still far from the reality of Patong Beach. This place is famous for the “Fantasea” show, where are shown, with wonderful choreography some tales from the history of Thailand. It's worth being considered for a holiday in Koh Phuket.
4. Patong Beach – This is a fast growing city that is one of the main cores of the Thai nightlife, even if, lately it’s become a bit extreme. The water is a real sewer and I suggest that, if a tourist doesn't want to go far from the Phuket, there is a beautiful beach called “Paradise Beach” where the sea is still beautiful. Anyway, the real reason that attracts people to Patong is the nightlife, but on the other hand, also many drugs are dealt there and also many (perhaps too many) venues offer exclusive attractions for the sex tourists. The authorities have also announced that Patong is the place with highest HIV diffusion in Thailand, so, the sex tourism reasons to go, to me, seem more like suicidal. As I’ve written, many discos and entertainments are there and I like it.
5. Karon Beach – It was my second choice. This village has some nightlife and still far much quieter than Patong Beach. The sea is acceptable and it's cheaper than Patong. If I went back to Phuket, I could pick my next hotel in Karon Beach. It's good also for little kids as there you can find the “Dino Park” a dinosaurs-themed park.
6. Kata Beach – It's a village made of almost only hotels, the venues are just few and the relaxed nightlife closes early.
7. Nai Harn Beach – A small place with an almost non existent nightlife and fairly good sea.
8. Chalong – It's a small village in the south-eastern side of the island and in the past was chosen mainly by yachters. There are only few venues, even if lately it's starting to grow a little bit.
As you can see, after considering these alternatives, and seeing that I was travelling alone, I decided to go to the place where I had better chances to have fun both in the day and at night.
The sun took a short time to go down, and I had to go back to my hotel to shower and get ready for the night. After a quick shower I went back into the streets. The beautiful thing about Patong is that there's an excessive number of travellers desks, so you can easily find some nice places to visit. I took some time to read some leaflets and in the end I decided to visit some places that I hadn’t visited yet, and to go back to an island that I hadn't seen well the last year as I’d had bad weather. So, I entered the Pub/tourist desk and with a beer for myself and one for the desk girl I started to bargain for the trip. This time, believe it or not, I got 50% off for a trip to the beautiful “Raya Island”. After having paid for my trip I left the place and I went to check the restaurants out. Soon I found a new Japanese restaurant, so, seeing that in Thailand Japanese food is so cheap, I decided to have my first dinner there. Last time that I was in a Japanese restaurant in my city I had to pay the outrageous sum of 40 Euros. In this Patong restaurant I ate MUCH more and I paid something like 6 Euros. After my dinner, I went into the party streets and I became part of this nightlife. I like Patong beach after the sunset as much as I don't like it when it's daytime. So, as a first night, it was great. I went back to the hotel, it was late and the desk girl interrogated me about my evening and my plans for the next days. Seeing that, as it often happens, they can offer some “fake deals” asking to introduce you some “friend” working in some pub or tourist desk, I didn't give her much information. I wished her goodnight and I went to sleep. I was looking forward to a great trip the next day.
Andaman Sea – Raya Island (Koh Racha Yai) – The flour sand island
The second day in Patong Beach started quite early. When I booked my trip to Raya Island the girl told me that a minivan would come and pick me up at 7.45. So, I woke up early and I went to have the typical “Lamai Inn Continental Breakfast”. It was a year from my last breakfast in the Lamai Inn, and I still had to forget the breakfasts. The thing that kept me eating breakfast there was that the desk people were very kind (when they didn't question me) and it was very cheap. In fact, the workers of the Lamai Inn, all but the “luggage guy”, were wonderful. Moreover, after the “Resort” in Chaweng Beach, this middle-level hotel, for me, looked like an enchanted castle from a fairy tale.
When you have a breakfast at the Lamai Inn you can pick between three different ones:
American:
Scrambled eggs
Coffee
Toasted bread
Jam
Juice
Continental Small
Coffee
Toasted Bread
Jam
Juice
Continental Big
Coffee
Toasted Bread (one slice in more)
Jam
Juice
I took the “Continental Small”, and after a so long and delicate toasting procedure they brought me some bread that had the look and taste of burnt coal and the consistency of chewing-gum. I tried to take some butter to put it on the bread, but it was still ice-cold and hard as concrete. As the result, I pressed the butter too much and I pierced the bread. The mysterious jam was some jelly that, once upon a time, had seen from far some fruit, and this was enough to graduate it as a jam. Anyway, while eating there, I had a sudden memory. It was there that I'd met two persons the year before. One was a bar-waiter called “My”, a sweetheart. The other was a tour guide called “Pui”. The same one that one year after asked me to go to her in Samui. I fought back the memory of Pui, and I came back, first to my food (here I made another connection between the coal taste of the bread and Pui), and then I went back to my room to prepare my small backpack.
Soon later I was back in the hall and in a matter of minutes the minivan came to get me. We soon left Patong Beach and headed to Karon Beach. To reach there you have to first climb up a hill, and then to go down on the other side. When entering in Karon, you can also see where the “Victor Ladyboy Show” is held. This is a cabaret show with only men and Thai transsexuals. Beside the weird ideas that could come thinking about it, it's just a show good for everybody even families. I saw it last year (it wasn't “Victor” but another one similar named “My Way”) and I found it enjoyable. In Karon we took four Hong Kong guys on. While going toward the pier, I checked who was with us. I noticed that there was Mr. Old British Man with Mrs. Old British Lady, then there was Mr. Young Viking with Mrs. Young Viking Wife, and some cartoon-characters looking like people from Hong Kong.
Soon we reached the pier and I went on to the boat taking the forward seat. With me there were the Cartoon Characters. The trip with a speed boat is really short and soon you reach the beautiful Raya Island. On board I also met Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide. He was a really fun man with dark skin and powerful voice. He told us that this is a small and exclusive island. Now very beautiful resorts are being built, while in the past there was almost only camping. This island was also hit some years ago by the Tsunami that left so much destruction, but surprisingly, only one victim.
The island is a little more south than Phuket, and is far enough to have crystal clear water and wonderful beaches. The first place that we visited was a small bay with an awesome coral reef. When I went back on the boat Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide asked my name and I told him that my name is Francesco. He looked at me and then, with his powerful voice like screaming to the world said “Welcome Franciscoooo!” I looked at him smiling and he told me that he has a dear Spanish friend which name is Francisco, and every year he comes from Spain to have a month of holidays in Raya Island. Later we left the bay and we went to a pier where we were unloaded. Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide took us around showing us some plantations and also where his family is living. He showed us around, and while walking I became quite friendly with the Old British couple and with the Cartoon Characters. We had lunch in the exact middle of the island, and then we left for the beaches. We took a short walk, and then, we saw them. The most beautiful beaches that I've ever seen. I couldn't believe how soft and white that sand was. It felt like walking on flour. It was an unforgettable experience. In the pictures of this group, you can see some white sand beaches. It isn't a weird colour caused by the strong light, but it's the real one. The tour guide told us that we could stop and sunbathe on any beach we preferred, but he suggested to me to go to the last one.
We started to walk again into that forest, and the guide started to tell us that on the island there are also some wild Varans. I started to look around, and then I spotted a huge one. It was real that there were Varans! It was great! Then we reached a cape. On the other side, there was a white sand beach with sapphire water. I was amazed. You can see it in the fifth picture of this group. This beach is also the best one for scuba diving, as here are also held scuba diving courses.
Then, Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide came to us and turned serious. He told us that this bay was the one that was hit by the Tsunami first. He said that on that morning everything looked normal and the tourists were enjoying their holidays. Among them, there was a group of people from Norway that went scuba diving. They were already 10 metres deep when, all of a sudden, they found that there wasn't anymore water. It looked like the sea had gone dry. They understood that there was something wrong and came back running to the beach, they gave the alarm and went to the top of the hill. They knew what was going on. The alarm spread fast on the island and everyone looked for shelter. Now, speculations say that a British woman, in spite of looking for safety went to her tent to save some of her things, then came the wave. It broke over the island from the two sides. The hit was bad, and only destruction was left behind. Nobody saw the British lady again. Surprisingly, nobody else died on Raya Island that day. The same wave hit also other places causing thousands of deaths. After this sad part, the Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide brought us to that beautiful beach. Now we were walking in silence, thinking about the recent past of that place. When we were going to the beach, we also met many Varans that were eating something that the owner of a restaurant had just thrown to them. I took some pictures and then I went to the beach with the British old couple. The day was great, the sun was shining and water was wonderful. It was so pleasant that I couldn't feel the time passing by. Too soon Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide came calling us. We got back to our speedboat and we went back to Phuket. It was a great day, and I suggest to everybody to go and see this island.
The same evening I went again to the pub/tourist desk and I planned a new trip for the next day. This time I decided to go back to the Phi-Phi Islands and the Kay Islands. After booking this trip, I went to have a nice dinner at an outdoor place. From outside it looks quite bad, but the prices were really low and food was just great. Later it was again time for some clubbing, but I soon had to go back to my hotel as the next day I'd have to wake up early again for my next trip.
When you have a breakfast at the Lamai Inn you can pick between three different ones:
American:
Scrambled eggs
Coffee
Toasted bread
Jam
Juice
Continental Small
Coffee
Toasted Bread
Jam
Juice
Continental Big
Coffee
Toasted Bread (one slice in more)
Jam
Juice
I took the “Continental Small”, and after a so long and delicate toasting procedure they brought me some bread that had the look and taste of burnt coal and the consistency of chewing-gum. I tried to take some butter to put it on the bread, but it was still ice-cold and hard as concrete. As the result, I pressed the butter too much and I pierced the bread. The mysterious jam was some jelly that, once upon a time, had seen from far some fruit, and this was enough to graduate it as a jam. Anyway, while eating there, I had a sudden memory. It was there that I'd met two persons the year before. One was a bar-waiter called “My”, a sweetheart. The other was a tour guide called “Pui”. The same one that one year after asked me to go to her in Samui. I fought back the memory of Pui, and I came back, first to my food (here I made another connection between the coal taste of the bread and Pui), and then I went back to my room to prepare my small backpack.
Soon later I was back in the hall and in a matter of minutes the minivan came to get me. We soon left Patong Beach and headed to Karon Beach. To reach there you have to first climb up a hill, and then to go down on the other side. When entering in Karon, you can also see where the “Victor Ladyboy Show” is held. This is a cabaret show with only men and Thai transsexuals. Beside the weird ideas that could come thinking about it, it's just a show good for everybody even families. I saw it last year (it wasn't “Victor” but another one similar named “My Way”) and I found it enjoyable. In Karon we took four Hong Kong guys on. While going toward the pier, I checked who was with us. I noticed that there was Mr. Old British Man with Mrs. Old British Lady, then there was Mr. Young Viking with Mrs. Young Viking Wife, and some cartoon-characters looking like people from Hong Kong.
Soon we reached the pier and I went on to the boat taking the forward seat. With me there were the Cartoon Characters. The trip with a speed boat is really short and soon you reach the beautiful Raya Island. On board I also met Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide. He was a really fun man with dark skin and powerful voice. He told us that this is a small and exclusive island. Now very beautiful resorts are being built, while in the past there was almost only camping. This island was also hit some years ago by the Tsunami that left so much destruction, but surprisingly, only one victim.
The island is a little more south than Phuket, and is far enough to have crystal clear water and wonderful beaches. The first place that we visited was a small bay with an awesome coral reef. When I went back on the boat Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide asked my name and I told him that my name is Francesco. He looked at me and then, with his powerful voice like screaming to the world said “Welcome Franciscoooo!” I looked at him smiling and he told me that he has a dear Spanish friend which name is Francisco, and every year he comes from Spain to have a month of holidays in Raya Island. Later we left the bay and we went to a pier where we were unloaded. Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide took us around showing us some plantations and also where his family is living. He showed us around, and while walking I became quite friendly with the Old British couple and with the Cartoon Characters. We had lunch in the exact middle of the island, and then we left for the beaches. We took a short walk, and then, we saw them. The most beautiful beaches that I've ever seen. I couldn't believe how soft and white that sand was. It felt like walking on flour. It was an unforgettable experience. In the pictures of this group, you can see some white sand beaches. It isn't a weird colour caused by the strong light, but it's the real one. The tour guide told us that we could stop and sunbathe on any beach we preferred, but he suggested to me to go to the last one.
We started to walk again into that forest, and the guide started to tell us that on the island there are also some wild Varans. I started to look around, and then I spotted a huge one. It was real that there were Varans! It was great! Then we reached a cape. On the other side, there was a white sand beach with sapphire water. I was amazed. You can see it in the fifth picture of this group. This beach is also the best one for scuba diving, as here are also held scuba diving courses.
Then, Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide came to us and turned serious. He told us that this bay was the one that was hit by the Tsunami first. He said that on that morning everything looked normal and the tourists were enjoying their holidays. Among them, there was a group of people from Norway that went scuba diving. They were already 10 metres deep when, all of a sudden, they found that there wasn't anymore water. It looked like the sea had gone dry. They understood that there was something wrong and came back running to the beach, they gave the alarm and went to the top of the hill. They knew what was going on. The alarm spread fast on the island and everyone looked for shelter. Now, speculations say that a British woman, in spite of looking for safety went to her tent to save some of her things, then came the wave. It broke over the island from the two sides. The hit was bad, and only destruction was left behind. Nobody saw the British lady again. Surprisingly, nobody else died on Raya Island that day. The same wave hit also other places causing thousands of deaths. After this sad part, the Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide brought us to that beautiful beach. Now we were walking in silence, thinking about the recent past of that place. When we were going to the beach, we also met many Varans that were eating something that the owner of a restaurant had just thrown to them. I took some pictures and then I went to the beach with the British old couple. The day was great, the sun was shining and water was wonderful. It was so pleasant that I couldn't feel the time passing by. Too soon Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide came calling us. We got back to our speedboat and we went back to Phuket. It was a great day, and I suggest to everybody to go and see this island.
The same evening I went again to the pub/tourist desk and I planned a new trip for the next day. This time I decided to go back to the Phi-Phi Islands and the Kay Islands. After booking this trip, I went to have a nice dinner at an outdoor place. From outside it looks quite bad, but the prices were really low and food was just great. Later it was again time for some clubbing, but I soon had to go back to my hotel as the next day I'd have to wake up early again for my next trip.
Phi-Phi Island and Kay Islands – The Pearls of the Phuket sea
Phi-Phi Island and Kay Islands – The Pearls of the Phuket sea: The night after the visit to Raya Island I had nightmares. I think that it was due after the heavy fish dinner that I had and the cold beer that I had drunk in Bangla street, the centre of Patong Nightlife. I had dreams of Varans talking with the voice of Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide saying that in this life I couldn't become a Buddha, but maybe in 3-4 lives I could do it. I woke up with a light headache and the feeling that next nights I should drink less beer. Later I checked the weather. It was partly cloudy. I put on my shorts and I grabbed my T-Shirt, finishing to get dressed while going to have breakfast. I sat at my favourite table, and while watching the forecasts on TV I ordered again my “Continental Small” breakfast. I decided to go to the Phi-Phi islands because the previous year I'd had bad weather, and I hoped to have some sun this time. The forecasts said the opposite. Cloudy weather was expected, some downpours and the choppy sea. The things that I thought about that weather brought me even farther from becoming a Buddha than as predicted by my dream.
Shortly later I got ready for my trip, but the minivan came about 20 minutes late. The minivan was beautiful and already full of people. We left Patong and we went straight to a pier near to Phuket Town. The driver asked me to sit next to him, and he tried to speak to me for the whole the time. He had terrible English, but he was a fun man, and gave me much information about the city. Even if the main subject were his problems with the Chinese community in Phuket Town. An interesting thing is that most of the Thais think that for the Farangs all Asians are the same, and we can't recognise a Chinese from a Korean from a Thai. Actually, it can be difficult, especially because the Thai race comes from the Chinese region of the Yunnan. But they can find this almost irritating. On the other hand, they think that outside of Asia, there are only Farangs, Arabs and Blacks.
This trip through Phuket Town was also a good way to see one more time the things that I'd seen the year before. The irritating thing was that shortly later the driver started to ask me if I needed some “extra service” that “his friends” (I guess girls) could provide. I told him that I didn't need his help, but he continued boring me. He kept on saying “yu no-no, I ca' hel yu!” it meant something like a nasal version of “You don't know, I can help you!” I answered that it was my third time in Phuket (I lied) and I knew it very well. He asked if I needed a massage, and I answered that I don't want massage from him. So, he laughed and told me “Nooo, ma'fiend!” that is a nasal version of “No, from my friend”. I just answered with “leave it”, and he came back to talk about the Chinese people building temples.
It took more time than expected to reach the pier. There I met “Leo” our new tour guide. Actually, he liked to play the joke that, as we were going to see the place where the movie “The Beach” was shot he was the real Leonardo Di Caprio. Then, when he wore his sunglasses said that he looked like Tom Cruise. He was a fun man, and kept on telling jokes all the time. I told him that Francesco is not my real name, but I'm Brad Pitt, but he didn't look very convinced at the beginning, but then he started to think that it may be true. At least as he's Leonardo Di Caprio.
We left Phuket with a beautiful speed boat, and we headed east at top speed. Toward the beautiful Phi-Phi Islands. Toward beautiful reefs. Toward a storm. I was getting accustomed to be on a speed boat in the middle of the sea with a storm. I knew how dangerous it can be, but I couldn't do anything else than to hope that the clouds would wait until we touched the ground before sending some lightning down. The ride to Phi-Phi takes about 45 minutes. First you pass by the Kay Islands and then you reach Phi-Phi. The tour would stop again at the Kay Islands when coming back to Phuket.
The first stop was in Phi-Phi Ley, the smaller of the two islands. We had three places to see. The first was the famous “Maya Bay” where the movie “The Beach” was shot. You can see it in the pictures number 1 and 2. When you land there, you can stay about half hour. It was great. The reef, after the Tsunami, doesn't exist anymore. At least, it doesn't exist near the beach. But you can still swim or lay on the soft sand. I love this bay, and even if it was my second time, I still loved it like when I went there one year before. Then, we left this bay and we went to another one called “Loh Samah Bay” where you can see a pretty reef. You can see it in the picture number 3. The next stop was near there, for another stop for snorkelling to see the reef. There started the storm. The rain started to fall very heavily. We went back to our boat and we looked for shelter in the covered part.
With the boat we passed by the “Viking Cave” where there are some archaeological wall paintings. You can only see the entrance as it's forbidden to enter. Moreover, that is the place where sea-birds nest. So, it's a protected area. Forbidden for all but the dealers in “bird nest soup”. Anyway, Mr. Leo suggested us to not buy that soup as it was very expensive and you could buy one for 150 Baat (about 3,50 Euro) at the “Seven Eleven” market.
The next stop was in the next island, the Phi-Phi Don island. We first stopped at the “Monkey Beach” where we could feed some almost-wild monkeys. The stop is very short and these animals can be very dangerous. Soon we left and we reached the place with more resorts called “Ton Sai Bay”. You can see it in the pictures number 4 and 5. The rain stopped falling, and we were invited to eat at a buffet restaurant there. It was an easy place, but the food was very good there. Then, while I was eating I heard a very powerful voice saying “Francisco!” it was Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide that was there too and recognised me! I couldn't believe it. He told me that he was leading another group to the same places that day. It was great to see him again. After lunch I went to wander a bit around the very small town. I checked the souvenir shops without buying stuff, and then I went back to my speedboat in time for the next ride.
As soon as we left Phi-Phi Don island, Leo our tour guide turned serious and started to tell us about the day of the Tsunami. He said that on the 26th December 2004 he was working on a trip like the one of that day. While they were far out at sea an engine broke down and it took a while to fix it. When they had repaired it, they started again the trip to the Phi-Phi islands. When they reached there, they couldn't recognise the profile of the village. It didn't exist anymore. Being far out at sea, they didn't feel the Tsunami, but then they witnessed the destruction. One team member had all his family there, and that morning all the family had been wiped out by the Tsunami. I can only barely imagine the feelings that could have been in those moments. Since I have been going to Thailand I have heard many stories like this and I still get goose bumps about them.
After this sad story, we started back to Phuket, but on the way back, we still stopped to the small Kay Islands. I've a special love for these small islands. It's there, where a year ago, I saw the best coral reef, and I went back there to see it one more time. Unluckily, the weather was bad, and beside swimming and snorkelling, I couldn't get much sun that day. It wasn't a problem as the lower temperature helped me to sleep better near to the sea. The gentle sound of the waves was a sweet lullaby, while the soft sand was the silky sheet under my skin. I loved it. As I wrote, I've a special love for the Kay Islands. Later I had a snack with a fresh coconut, as my food intoxication was far, and now I could eat coconut again. You can see the Kay Islands in the pictures number 6, 7 and 8. The time passed by too fast, and it came the time to be back to my speed boat. That day I'd also met two Japanese men. They told me that they had holiday from work and went there. Probably they wanted to impress me, but I think that everybody was doing the same thing. Then they started to behave silly and to play jokes that they only understood. luckily I managed to get rid of them both and to relax on the island.
From the Kay Island it takes about 30 minutes to reach Patong, or as Leo says, it takes 32 minutes and 48 seconds. This time we couldn't do it in the time told by Leo, because the low tide forced us to go to another pier. There I met again my chatty driver and we went back to Patong.
When we reached Patong it was already late, but this time I asked the driver to leave me near “Bangla Street” as I needed to go to a supermarket. He, kindly, left me in the Gay neighbourhood. On one hand I wanted to force him to take me where I asked, but on the other hand, I was happy to get rid of him too. So, I went down into the gay neighbourhood that is only 10 minutes from the place where I needed to go. Luckily the boys of “Soi Paradise” (the name Paradise isn't connected to any sexual activity, but just to the “Paradise Hotel”, a gay friendly hotel), weren't interested in me, and let me go without chasing after me. Soon I reached the “straight” area, and I did everything I needed to do before going back to the hotel.
That night, after a very good shower, I went back to the Pub/Travel Desk. With two beers, I bargained again with the girl for a new trip to Krabi. I bargained well and I got again a good discount. The same girl told me that if she hadn't to work the next day, she'd be happy to go there too. I don't know if she meant that the place is truly beautiful, or she expected that I'd pay a trip also for her. That night, when I went back to my hotel, I was again questioned by the desk girl. This time, when she heard about Krabi, she answered “Me from Krabi! Bring me with you!” It looks like these people think that the “Farangs” are rich people willing to spend loads of money with people that they don't know. I went back to my room and I fell fast asleep.
Shortly later I got ready for my trip, but the minivan came about 20 minutes late. The minivan was beautiful and already full of people. We left Patong and we went straight to a pier near to Phuket Town. The driver asked me to sit next to him, and he tried to speak to me for the whole the time. He had terrible English, but he was a fun man, and gave me much information about the city. Even if the main subject were his problems with the Chinese community in Phuket Town. An interesting thing is that most of the Thais think that for the Farangs all Asians are the same, and we can't recognise a Chinese from a Korean from a Thai. Actually, it can be difficult, especially because the Thai race comes from the Chinese region of the Yunnan. But they can find this almost irritating. On the other hand, they think that outside of Asia, there are only Farangs, Arabs and Blacks.
This trip through Phuket Town was also a good way to see one more time the things that I'd seen the year before. The irritating thing was that shortly later the driver started to ask me if I needed some “extra service” that “his friends” (I guess girls) could provide. I told him that I didn't need his help, but he continued boring me. He kept on saying “yu no-no, I ca' hel yu!” it meant something like a nasal version of “You don't know, I can help you!” I answered that it was my third time in Phuket (I lied) and I knew it very well. He asked if I needed a massage, and I answered that I don't want massage from him. So, he laughed and told me “Nooo, ma'fiend!” that is a nasal version of “No, from my friend”. I just answered with “leave it”, and he came back to talk about the Chinese people building temples.
It took more time than expected to reach the pier. There I met “Leo” our new tour guide. Actually, he liked to play the joke that, as we were going to see the place where the movie “The Beach” was shot he was the real Leonardo Di Caprio. Then, when he wore his sunglasses said that he looked like Tom Cruise. He was a fun man, and kept on telling jokes all the time. I told him that Francesco is not my real name, but I'm Brad Pitt, but he didn't look very convinced at the beginning, but then he started to think that it may be true. At least as he's Leonardo Di Caprio.
We left Phuket with a beautiful speed boat, and we headed east at top speed. Toward the beautiful Phi-Phi Islands. Toward beautiful reefs. Toward a storm. I was getting accustomed to be on a speed boat in the middle of the sea with a storm. I knew how dangerous it can be, but I couldn't do anything else than to hope that the clouds would wait until we touched the ground before sending some lightning down. The ride to Phi-Phi takes about 45 minutes. First you pass by the Kay Islands and then you reach Phi-Phi. The tour would stop again at the Kay Islands when coming back to Phuket.
The first stop was in Phi-Phi Ley, the smaller of the two islands. We had three places to see. The first was the famous “Maya Bay” where the movie “The Beach” was shot. You can see it in the pictures number 1 and 2. When you land there, you can stay about half hour. It was great. The reef, after the Tsunami, doesn't exist anymore. At least, it doesn't exist near the beach. But you can still swim or lay on the soft sand. I love this bay, and even if it was my second time, I still loved it like when I went there one year before. Then, we left this bay and we went to another one called “Loh Samah Bay” where you can see a pretty reef. You can see it in the picture number 3. The next stop was near there, for another stop for snorkelling to see the reef. There started the storm. The rain started to fall very heavily. We went back to our boat and we looked for shelter in the covered part.
With the boat we passed by the “Viking Cave” where there are some archaeological wall paintings. You can only see the entrance as it's forbidden to enter. Moreover, that is the place where sea-birds nest. So, it's a protected area. Forbidden for all but the dealers in “bird nest soup”. Anyway, Mr. Leo suggested us to not buy that soup as it was very expensive and you could buy one for 150 Baat (about 3,50 Euro) at the “Seven Eleven” market.
The next stop was in the next island, the Phi-Phi Don island. We first stopped at the “Monkey Beach” where we could feed some almost-wild monkeys. The stop is very short and these animals can be very dangerous. Soon we left and we reached the place with more resorts called “Ton Sai Bay”. You can see it in the pictures number 4 and 5. The rain stopped falling, and we were invited to eat at a buffet restaurant there. It was an easy place, but the food was very good there. Then, while I was eating I heard a very powerful voice saying “Francisco!” it was Mr. Raya Island Tour Guide that was there too and recognised me! I couldn't believe it. He told me that he was leading another group to the same places that day. It was great to see him again. After lunch I went to wander a bit around the very small town. I checked the souvenir shops without buying stuff, and then I went back to my speedboat in time for the next ride.
As soon as we left Phi-Phi Don island, Leo our tour guide turned serious and started to tell us about the day of the Tsunami. He said that on the 26th December 2004 he was working on a trip like the one of that day. While they were far out at sea an engine broke down and it took a while to fix it. When they had repaired it, they started again the trip to the Phi-Phi islands. When they reached there, they couldn't recognise the profile of the village. It didn't exist anymore. Being far out at sea, they didn't feel the Tsunami, but then they witnessed the destruction. One team member had all his family there, and that morning all the family had been wiped out by the Tsunami. I can only barely imagine the feelings that could have been in those moments. Since I have been going to Thailand I have heard many stories like this and I still get goose bumps about them.
After this sad story, we started back to Phuket, but on the way back, we still stopped to the small Kay Islands. I've a special love for these small islands. It's there, where a year ago, I saw the best coral reef, and I went back there to see it one more time. Unluckily, the weather was bad, and beside swimming and snorkelling, I couldn't get much sun that day. It wasn't a problem as the lower temperature helped me to sleep better near to the sea. The gentle sound of the waves was a sweet lullaby, while the soft sand was the silky sheet under my skin. I loved it. As I wrote, I've a special love for the Kay Islands. Later I had a snack with a fresh coconut, as my food intoxication was far, and now I could eat coconut again. You can see the Kay Islands in the pictures number 6, 7 and 8. The time passed by too fast, and it came the time to be back to my speed boat. That day I'd also met two Japanese men. They told me that they had holiday from work and went there. Probably they wanted to impress me, but I think that everybody was doing the same thing. Then they started to behave silly and to play jokes that they only understood. luckily I managed to get rid of them both and to relax on the island.
From the Kay Island it takes about 30 minutes to reach Patong, or as Leo says, it takes 32 minutes and 48 seconds. This time we couldn't do it in the time told by Leo, because the low tide forced us to go to another pier. There I met again my chatty driver and we went back to Patong.
When we reached Patong it was already late, but this time I asked the driver to leave me near “Bangla Street” as I needed to go to a supermarket. He, kindly, left me in the Gay neighbourhood. On one hand I wanted to force him to take me where I asked, but on the other hand, I was happy to get rid of him too. So, I went down into the gay neighbourhood that is only 10 minutes from the place where I needed to go. Luckily the boys of “Soi Paradise” (the name Paradise isn't connected to any sexual activity, but just to the “Paradise Hotel”, a gay friendly hotel), weren't interested in me, and let me go without chasing after me. Soon I reached the “straight” area, and I did everything I needed to do before going back to the hotel.
That night, after a very good shower, I went back to the Pub/Travel Desk. With two beers, I bargained again with the girl for a new trip to Krabi. I bargained well and I got again a good discount. The same girl told me that if she hadn't to work the next day, she'd be happy to go there too. I don't know if she meant that the place is truly beautiful, or she expected that I'd pay a trip also for her. That night, when I went back to my hotel, I was again questioned by the desk girl. This time, when she heard about Krabi, she answered “Me from Krabi! Bring me with you!” It looks like these people think that the “Farangs” are rich people willing to spend loads of money with people that they don't know. I went back to my room and I fell fast asleep.
Krabi – The one thousand islands land
The morning of my trip to Krabi, I woke up to find it was raining. This is one of the things that I hate the most. To book a trip to somewhere and then it rains. I went downstairs to the hotel hall, and, while having my “Continental Breakfast small” I kept on staring to the sky, hoping to see some sun. The breakfast was as always. Rubber textured toasted bread with concrete-hard butter. That morning the minivan was coming later, and I took my time getting ready. Fortunately, in the meanwhile, it stopped raining.
The minivan arrived on time, and it brought me to the Rasada harbour. where a ferry was waiting for us. We were loaded on board along with other people that were going to many other places across that part of the Andaman sea. While there I could chose to sit indoors or outdoors. Of course, I preferred to take a seat outside, especially because in the indoor room it was unbelievably cold. While there we were offered also a small second breakfast, consisting in a cup of coffee and a small snack. Anyway, I liked that coffee. Soon we passed by my dear Kay Islands and then next to Koh Yao Yai. Much later we reached also the Phi Phi Islands and passed them by too. Now we were going straight to Krabi, straight to the one thousand small limestone-cliffs islands (actually they are many less) and to a storm.
We first reached Nopparat Thara Beach on the sea before Krabi Town. Here we were split into groups depending on the destination. I was going to Railay, so I was in the third group. We took another boat that brought us to see first the famous “Chicken Island”, an island with a rock shaped like the head of a chicken. You can see it in the third picture. Here it started to rain and it didn't stop until we got back to Phuket. After the visit to the pretty “Chicken Island” we were brought to Tap Island, where, eventually, we had the chance to swim and to run to shelter from the rain. The island itself is very beautiful, but the rain didn't allow me enjoy it much. Later we left for Railay Beach. This place, named Railay, is one of the most beautiful in all the Krabi area. There are huge soft sand beaches and crystal clear sea. When we approached the beach we were asked to get on smaller longtail boats. In my group, unluckily, we had Mr. 150 Kg and Mr 149 Kg. They didn't step onto the longtail but they both jumped onboard and they sat on the same side. I jumped on the opposite side with the sailors to counterbalance the boat before it started to sink. This is the proof that, as Dieticians say “Fat can kill”. We after this adventure were taken to the beach where we had a good lunch at the Sand and Sea resort, and after we were left to walk freely around in the rain. During the lunch I got friendly with a German couple. The man couldn't speak very good English, but was a real chatterbox, while the wife had better English but didn't speak much. To make it short, the storm got worse and we were asked to go back to our boat. While going back to our boat we were shown from far the Pranang Cave, that houses a shrine, you can see it in the picture number 6. Near there is also a worldwide very famous rock climbing site. Even with that rain, you could still see people trying to climb those limestone cliffs. The rain got worse and when we reached our boat we had to look for shelter in the inside places. I used my beach towel to protect me from the cold air conditioning. The trip back to Phuket took very long, but, at least, when we arrived in Phuket the sun was shining again. Let me say that I liked this trip. Of course, the rain was a problem, but I can definitely suggest Krabi to everyone.
The minivan arrived on time, and it brought me to the Rasada harbour. where a ferry was waiting for us. We were loaded on board along with other people that were going to many other places across that part of the Andaman sea. While there I could chose to sit indoors or outdoors. Of course, I preferred to take a seat outside, especially because in the indoor room it was unbelievably cold. While there we were offered also a small second breakfast, consisting in a cup of coffee and a small snack. Anyway, I liked that coffee. Soon we passed by my dear Kay Islands and then next to Koh Yao Yai. Much later we reached also the Phi Phi Islands and passed them by too. Now we were going straight to Krabi, straight to the one thousand small limestone-cliffs islands (actually they are many less) and to a storm.
We first reached Nopparat Thara Beach on the sea before Krabi Town. Here we were split into groups depending on the destination. I was going to Railay, so I was in the third group. We took another boat that brought us to see first the famous “Chicken Island”, an island with a rock shaped like the head of a chicken. You can see it in the third picture. Here it started to rain and it didn't stop until we got back to Phuket. After the visit to the pretty “Chicken Island” we were brought to Tap Island, where, eventually, we had the chance to swim and to run to shelter from the rain. The island itself is very beautiful, but the rain didn't allow me enjoy it much. Later we left for Railay Beach. This place, named Railay, is one of the most beautiful in all the Krabi area. There are huge soft sand beaches and crystal clear sea. When we approached the beach we were asked to get on smaller longtail boats. In my group, unluckily, we had Mr. 150 Kg and Mr 149 Kg. They didn't step onto the longtail but they both jumped onboard and they sat on the same side. I jumped on the opposite side with the sailors to counterbalance the boat before it started to sink. This is the proof that, as Dieticians say “Fat can kill”. We after this adventure were taken to the beach where we had a good lunch at the Sand and Sea resort, and after we were left to walk freely around in the rain. During the lunch I got friendly with a German couple. The man couldn't speak very good English, but was a real chatterbox, while the wife had better English but didn't speak much. To make it short, the storm got worse and we were asked to go back to our boat. While going back to our boat we were shown from far the Pranang Cave, that houses a shrine, you can see it in the picture number 6. Near there is also a worldwide very famous rock climbing site. Even with that rain, you could still see people trying to climb those limestone cliffs. The rain got worse and when we reached our boat we had to look for shelter in the inside places. I used my beach towel to protect me from the cold air conditioning. The trip back to Phuket took very long, but, at least, when we arrived in Phuket the sun was shining again. Let me say that I liked this trip. Of course, the rain was a problem, but I can definitely suggest Krabi to everyone.
_Patong Beach – The Fun City and the Loi Kratong Festival
The same evening that I got back from Krabi I had to plan my last day in Patong. I was facing two options. I could just stay there, maybe to rent a motorbike going to Paradise beach, or to take a day trip. Because of my love for the small Kay Islands, I decided to take a full day trip at these islands again. I'll not tell you more about these islands as I've already wrote much about them.
During my stay in Patong, I've noted in my handbook some notes and I'd like to write here after, they aren't in a specific order, but as they came up.
1. Nightlife: This year I'd seen that the nightlife degenerated far too much from the previous time and in just a year, I've seen that most of the places had become sex-oriented venues. This could be a no-no place for many to go to in future, me too.
2. Transsexuals: Patong Beach became one of the places with the highest concentration of Ladyboys (the way that transsexuals are called in Thailand) in the country. You can see them everywhere, especially at night. While the most are very quiet, some can be very annoying.
3. Pubs/Restaurants: The average prices in the shops and venues rose scarily during the last years. The key suggestion to save some cash is to eat local food and search for cheap places. I located a couple that with 5-6 Euro gave me full meal against places that asked for the same things over 20 Euro. So, if you go there, look around before picking a place. The most expensive places are on the seafront and all around Bangla Street.
4. Bangla Street: It's the entertainment area. There are some “regular” discos there and you can spot them because there aren't almost-naked girls dragging you inside. The regular pub and restaurants are, while walking to the sea, on left hand side. On the opposite side there are mostly brothels, Go-Go Pubs (lap dancing clubs where you can take girls away) and “Beer Bars” (bars where you can take the waitresses away). As I wrote, last year it wasn't so obvious. Seeing that, when guys take the girls away they pay the owner of the pub (the Pimp) the price, called Bar Fine, for the working hours that they don't do at the pub/club/whatever it is, the girls after their “duty” don't come back to the “workplace”. If the man lasted too short and he didn't book them for the whole night, they go back to Bangla Street. Here they stand on the sidewalk, in line like soldiers during an inspection, waiting for new customers. Among them, there are also girls rejected by pub/club/whatever for “misbehaviour” (for example: scamming, drug dealing, mental problems, violence against the other girls, HIV infection, etc...). So, if you know somebody going there, tell them to be careful of these girls as among them could be some very dangerous ones. Not more than a year ago, an American guy took a girl. Another girl advised him to give her the double the cash and to let her go. He thought that they were trying to scam him. He went to a room with her. The next day he was found stabbed to death by her. All this information comes from Miss Doa a bartender friend of mine and from “The Nation” a newspaper about Thailand (I read it weekly). The same that I’ve written about the girls is applicable to the prostitute Lady Boys, and they are often even more dangerous as they are often in gangs. This tip is still from Miss Doa.
5. Shopping: There are both malls and markets, both offer good deals. The Jungceylon mall offers many good offers on local products of good quality. Here it is very difficult to have more discount on the offers. The markets are the best to find the fakes of good brands of clothing. In the beginning they asked me about 6 Euro per T-Shirt and I ended paying them about 3 Euro. I couldn't go under this price, while in Samui I bought from 1 to 2 Euro per T-Shirt. I've to say that in Patong the clothing was more beautiful than in Samui. The regular shops have high prices and it's always worth trying to bargain.
6. Massage parlours: One of the things that I like the most in Thailand is the Thai massage and the massage parlours. Unluckily, Patong Beach disappointed me in this thing too. Most of these places are improvised and the “massage therapists” are absolutely unskilled. They skip parts of massage, for example, in five full Thai massages only two massaged my arms and hands. After the sunset most of the massage parlours turn into brothels, so, one more time I don't suggest Patong for these things.
On my last late afternoon in Patong, I decided to go to do something that I hadn’t done for ages. I went to the local shooting range and spent some time there practising again my shooting skills. When I was there I practiced using a very bad Chinese-copy of a 9mm Glock 17 gun and a very crappy Chinese-copy of an half broken 9mm MP5 machine gun. Surprisingly, even using that crappy equipment I still made very good shots, especially after all those years that I hadn't shot a thing. You can see my pretty results in the first picture of this group.
When I left the shooting range I had time to deal with the taxi driver that took me there. I asked him, if he could come and take me the next morning to the airport. He was very happy and at the price of 400 Baat (about 9-10 Euro) he accepted to take me to the airport and give me the ride to and from the shooting range for free.
I did some more shopping, and then I went back to my hotel. The desk girl asked me what my plan was for the evening. I told her that, as that night would be the first night of the Loi Kratong festival, I was thinking to go there, but first I wanted to go to eat shrimp cakes. The girl looked at me pleased to know that I liked the Loi Kratong festival and then asked me if I could bring some shrimp cakes to her too! She never misses a chance to ask for something at the Farangs.
After a long shower I packed again my backpacks as the next day I'd be returning to Bangkok. My trekking boots, after all those days of humidity and sun looked terrible, but I decided to bring them back to Italy, hoping to find someone able to repair them. After all those gifts that I bought my backpacks looked like they would explode and now I started to feel like all my world was gravitating around them.
Later I went out into the streets. I went first to have dinner at a local seafood restaurant, where I had shrimp cakes, a roasted red snapper fruit and beer. Later I went to the Loi Kratong. The Loi Kratong is a festival that is half way between a “New Years Eve” and a “Carnival”. It's both traditional and very happy. The first day is just a preparation to the second one that is the real party. So, I went to Bangla street and I got lost between all those food stalls, drinks and small shops selling handicrafts. I ended the evening at the Miss Doa pub talking with her, playing some games and listening to the music.
The next day I woke up early. I said a “See you again” to Patong Beach, hoping to see it only when going to take hotel in Karon Beach, and I went back to the airport.
The trip to Phuket was very beautiful, and the landscapes all around are astonishing. Any time that somebody asks me about Thailand, I still suggest this area. So, I hope that this part of my travel diary could be useful to you if one day you'll go to that very charming land.
During my stay in Patong, I've noted in my handbook some notes and I'd like to write here after, they aren't in a specific order, but as they came up.
1. Nightlife: This year I'd seen that the nightlife degenerated far too much from the previous time and in just a year, I've seen that most of the places had become sex-oriented venues. This could be a no-no place for many to go to in future, me too.
2. Transsexuals: Patong Beach became one of the places with the highest concentration of Ladyboys (the way that transsexuals are called in Thailand) in the country. You can see them everywhere, especially at night. While the most are very quiet, some can be very annoying.
3. Pubs/Restaurants: The average prices in the shops and venues rose scarily during the last years. The key suggestion to save some cash is to eat local food and search for cheap places. I located a couple that with 5-6 Euro gave me full meal against places that asked for the same things over 20 Euro. So, if you go there, look around before picking a place. The most expensive places are on the seafront and all around Bangla Street.
4. Bangla Street: It's the entertainment area. There are some “regular” discos there and you can spot them because there aren't almost-naked girls dragging you inside. The regular pub and restaurants are, while walking to the sea, on left hand side. On the opposite side there are mostly brothels, Go-Go Pubs (lap dancing clubs where you can take girls away) and “Beer Bars” (bars where you can take the waitresses away). As I wrote, last year it wasn't so obvious. Seeing that, when guys take the girls away they pay the owner of the pub (the Pimp) the price, called Bar Fine, for the working hours that they don't do at the pub/club/whatever it is, the girls after their “duty” don't come back to the “workplace”. If the man lasted too short and he didn't book them for the whole night, they go back to Bangla Street. Here they stand on the sidewalk, in line like soldiers during an inspection, waiting for new customers. Among them, there are also girls rejected by pub/club/whatever for “misbehaviour” (for example: scamming, drug dealing, mental problems, violence against the other girls, HIV infection, etc...). So, if you know somebody going there, tell them to be careful of these girls as among them could be some very dangerous ones. Not more than a year ago, an American guy took a girl. Another girl advised him to give her the double the cash and to let her go. He thought that they were trying to scam him. He went to a room with her. The next day he was found stabbed to death by her. All this information comes from Miss Doa a bartender friend of mine and from “The Nation” a newspaper about Thailand (I read it weekly). The same that I’ve written about the girls is applicable to the prostitute Lady Boys, and they are often even more dangerous as they are often in gangs. This tip is still from Miss Doa.
5. Shopping: There are both malls and markets, both offer good deals. The Jungceylon mall offers many good offers on local products of good quality. Here it is very difficult to have more discount on the offers. The markets are the best to find the fakes of good brands of clothing. In the beginning they asked me about 6 Euro per T-Shirt and I ended paying them about 3 Euro. I couldn't go under this price, while in Samui I bought from 1 to 2 Euro per T-Shirt. I've to say that in Patong the clothing was more beautiful than in Samui. The regular shops have high prices and it's always worth trying to bargain.
6. Massage parlours: One of the things that I like the most in Thailand is the Thai massage and the massage parlours. Unluckily, Patong Beach disappointed me in this thing too. Most of these places are improvised and the “massage therapists” are absolutely unskilled. They skip parts of massage, for example, in five full Thai massages only two massaged my arms and hands. After the sunset most of the massage parlours turn into brothels, so, one more time I don't suggest Patong for these things.
On my last late afternoon in Patong, I decided to go to do something that I hadn’t done for ages. I went to the local shooting range and spent some time there practising again my shooting skills. When I was there I practiced using a very bad Chinese-copy of a 9mm Glock 17 gun and a very crappy Chinese-copy of an half broken 9mm MP5 machine gun. Surprisingly, even using that crappy equipment I still made very good shots, especially after all those years that I hadn't shot a thing. You can see my pretty results in the first picture of this group.
When I left the shooting range I had time to deal with the taxi driver that took me there. I asked him, if he could come and take me the next morning to the airport. He was very happy and at the price of 400 Baat (about 9-10 Euro) he accepted to take me to the airport and give me the ride to and from the shooting range for free.
I did some more shopping, and then I went back to my hotel. The desk girl asked me what my plan was for the evening. I told her that, as that night would be the first night of the Loi Kratong festival, I was thinking to go there, but first I wanted to go to eat shrimp cakes. The girl looked at me pleased to know that I liked the Loi Kratong festival and then asked me if I could bring some shrimp cakes to her too! She never misses a chance to ask for something at the Farangs.
After a long shower I packed again my backpacks as the next day I'd be returning to Bangkok. My trekking boots, after all those days of humidity and sun looked terrible, but I decided to bring them back to Italy, hoping to find someone able to repair them. After all those gifts that I bought my backpacks looked like they would explode and now I started to feel like all my world was gravitating around them.
Later I went out into the streets. I went first to have dinner at a local seafood restaurant, where I had shrimp cakes, a roasted red snapper fruit and beer. Later I went to the Loi Kratong. The Loi Kratong is a festival that is half way between a “New Years Eve” and a “Carnival”. It's both traditional and very happy. The first day is just a preparation to the second one that is the real party. So, I went to Bangla street and I got lost between all those food stalls, drinks and small shops selling handicrafts. I ended the evening at the Miss Doa pub talking with her, playing some games and listening to the music.
The next day I woke up early. I said a “See you again” to Patong Beach, hoping to see it only when going to take hotel in Karon Beach, and I went back to the airport.
The trip to Phuket was very beautiful, and the landscapes all around are astonishing. Any time that somebody asks me about Thailand, I still suggest this area. So, I hope that this part of my travel diary could be useful to you if one day you'll go to that very charming land.