Chapter 13
Day 13
Miyajima - Waking up on the island
The feeling was the same of when I wake up slowly from a dream. I had a far perception of what was around of me. Then, slowly, all the sensation took strength and slowly I woke up. I could feel the hard pavement under my futon. The Sakè of the previous night made me feel it softer though. Light was coming from the open window. I could hear the sound of the sea waves on the beach and far there was the noise of a fisherman boat sailing away. The warmth of the sunrays on my covers. The smell of the sea breeze.
I stood up and I found Lula that was already awaken and sitting by the balcony reading something. I turned around and in the corner of the room there were the backpacks that were reminding me to get up, stop wasting time, getting dressed because today we should go back to Kyoto.
I got dressed and, still sleepy, we went to the hall for our breakfast. The kind waiter came to us and asked if I wanted again the Traditional Japanese Breakfast or an European one, and in that case if I wanted Coffee or Tea. Lula said “European”, and then the waiter looked at me expecting “Japanese”, but I replied “Two Europeans... Coffeeeeee... Bread.... and whatever....”, and in low voice “This time you’ll not make fool of me with that darn Traditional Breakfast!”. Mr. Waiter didn’t give up with his interrogatory and asked me “Eggs?” and I replied “Yes, two scrambled with bacon, thank you, you’re very kind, you’re my hero in Miyajima for saving my breakfast from differently cooked eggs… I don’t know how to thank you… But, trust me, I’m grateful with you. You’re the man today. The man of Coffee and eggs…”, he smiled at me with that kind of smile that looked more like a comic balloon showing that he didn’t understand a word, more or less like I do when Japanese and English people talk to me (“…?...”), he smiled even more broadly and, as all the Asian waiters do, he repeated my order “Europenis… Cawfeet… Breeze… and Beacon Eggs!”, “Yes, fantastic! I can’t wait for the Cawfeet…”.
After breakfast we left the hotel and with the ferry we went back to Hiroshima. Then, with a Shinkansen we made all the way back to Kyoto where we arrived that was almost midday. We chosen the same hotel of our previous stay, but this time the room that we were given was, if possible, even smaller.
I stood up and I found Lula that was already awaken and sitting by the balcony reading something. I turned around and in the corner of the room there were the backpacks that were reminding me to get up, stop wasting time, getting dressed because today we should go back to Kyoto.
I got dressed and, still sleepy, we went to the hall for our breakfast. The kind waiter came to us and asked if I wanted again the Traditional Japanese Breakfast or an European one, and in that case if I wanted Coffee or Tea. Lula said “European”, and then the waiter looked at me expecting “Japanese”, but I replied “Two Europeans... Coffeeeeee... Bread.... and whatever....”, and in low voice “This time you’ll not make fool of me with that darn Traditional Breakfast!”. Mr. Waiter didn’t give up with his interrogatory and asked me “Eggs?” and I replied “Yes, two scrambled with bacon, thank you, you’re very kind, you’re my hero in Miyajima for saving my breakfast from differently cooked eggs… I don’t know how to thank you… But, trust me, I’m grateful with you. You’re the man today. The man of Coffee and eggs…”, he smiled at me with that kind of smile that looked more like a comic balloon showing that he didn’t understand a word, more or less like I do when Japanese and English people talk to me (“…?...”), he smiled even more broadly and, as all the Asian waiters do, he repeated my order “Europenis… Cawfeet… Breeze… and Beacon Eggs!”, “Yes, fantastic! I can’t wait for the Cawfeet…”.
After breakfast we left the hotel and with the ferry we went back to Hiroshima. Then, with a Shinkansen we made all the way back to Kyoto where we arrived that was almost midday. We chosen the same hotel of our previous stay, but this time the room that we were given was, if possible, even smaller.
Kyoto
Jinja Castle
We left the hotel and we took the first bus to the centre to start our Kyoto Tour. The first visit was at the Nijo Castle. This castle dates back at the 1600s, when was built as the local residence of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Lately, after that the inner part was destroyed first in 1750 by a fire started by a thunder bolt and in 1788 by a city wildfire, the residence was transferred into the Kyoto Imperial Palace, but the Nijo Castle was still rebuilt. In our days is impressive to see the two concentric lines of massive defensive walls, and in the core some of the most beautiful garden that I found in Japan. The visit of this castle was interesting as we were allowed, following a guided tour, to enter the inner part and the rooms. Our guides taught us many aspects and stories of this castle along some curiosities about the Lords day life. While approaching at the sleeping quarters of the Lord the tour guide invited us to a challenge. We should sneak to the room without making any noise. We were barefoot and on wooden floor, it should be easy, but it wasn’t. In fact, we were stepping onto the “Uguisubari” also known as the “Nightingale floors”. These floors were designed to make noise while somebody was walking on it. In fact, under the tiles of the floor were placed nails sliding on clamps. While somebody walked on the tiles, the nails will get through the clamps and would make a chirping noise, like there were birds in the hallway. These floors were designed as an alarm against intruders and it’s quite common thinking about the famed Ninjas sneaking around. Ok, the Ninjas were beaten by a Nightingale! We wandered still a bit around by the Nijo gardens which are fantastic, and then we went for the direction of the Imperial Palace.
Gyoen National Garden and Imperial Palace
We went through the Gyoen National Garden, which are perfectly cared and very beautiful to be seen, and we reached the Imperial Palace. Unluckily it was closed, so we had only the chance to take some picture from the outside. I guess that it should have been beautiful.
Gion - The Land of the Geishas
Lula took her guide book from the bag and opening it on Kyoto said “Where should we go now? I’ve read that there is also…”, I checked my wristwatch, I took the map, I checked the position of the sun for the direction and I took Lula by the hand and started dragging her with a “Follow me!”. I headed southward walking as faster as I could. “Where are we going?” she was asking to me “Trust me!” I was answering, and we replied “No, I don’t trust you!”, “You’re right! I wouldn’t trust myself neither!”, and I was speeding up. We had an appointment scheduled, but she didn’t know it yet.
We went through residential neighbourhoods, then the city centre, across a river, then Gion the Geisha neighbourhood until we reached a Bridge.
“It should be here around… Just close by…”
“Here, what?” was Lula
“Wait!” I turned around a few times with my Kyoto Map, all wrinkled, folded a thousand times, chewed by a Nara Deer and torn in Hiroshima. I made the point of where we were. We should be in front of the address that I noted on the map days before, and I recognized it. I pointed with a finger a small building and I said “It’s there!” and we went in that direction.
I entered a shop and as soon as I stepped in a old Japanese lady said “Hello! It’s you Fran?”, as soon as I answered “Yes” she invited Lula to enter and to sit. It was too late, she was fell in my surprise.
I love musicals and anything that involve costumes and theatre. So, without telling her, I enrolled her into a “Geisha Evening School”. Of course it takes a lifetime to become a Geisha, but this was just a makeover night. They gave her instructions on the movements to do and then they started with the makeover to turn her into a Geisha that not even Japanese people could recognize as a foreigner. During the dress-up phase the nice ladies shown to Lula a multitude of Geisha dresses and Lula chosen one in shades of red and blue that was the dress for a Maiko, that means, a Geisha student. Actually, I think that she picked the best one! While dressing Lula up the Old Lady was happy that we chosen her and kept on asking us about Italy and about our trip in Japan, which is a country that we really love.
When the ladies finished with Lula’s make-up and dress-up, she was unrecognizable. I really thought of having a Geisha, I mean Maiko, in front of me. From a corner of the room appeared a photographer, and he invited her into the photographic studio in the lower floor. He gave her instructions about the pose and some info about the traditional gesture with traditional object. Like for example, the way to hold a rice paper fan and how to use a rice-paper umbrella. The only thing that I didn’t get much was the use of a drum to hold on a shoulder, it looked more like a Geisha shooting the cameraman with a RPG launcher than a drum player. Anyway, it had been so much interesting to learn all these information. Then started the best part. Mr. photographer and a driver took both me and Lula to a SUV and with it drove us to Gion, the Geisha Neighbourhood. Mr. Photographer, which actually spoke a good English, shown to be a good guide too as he took us across the most important places for the Geishas, like some temples, the street called “Maiko Town” where really live real Geishas until a temple where the Maikos, the Geisha students, light lanterns with their names over in order to propitiate their Geisha career. All the tour was made walking down the street still dressed up as a Maiko and the effect on people had been overwhelming. Tens of people stopped by to take pictures to her without noticing that she was European, and even some Japanese people stopped her to ask her some questions in Japanese as they really thought that she was a real Maiko! Lula couldn’t believe it and she had to use all her self-discipline to keep the Geisha composure, even if, she hardly wished to blow into a loud laughter! It had been a fantastic evening!
After the tour in traditional clothing we came back to the studio, where the Old Ladies undressed her and took all the make-up away. The Old Ladies had fun listening to our tale and that people mistaken Lula for a real Japanese girl, they were proud of their work!
We went through residential neighbourhoods, then the city centre, across a river, then Gion the Geisha neighbourhood until we reached a Bridge.
“It should be here around… Just close by…”
“Here, what?” was Lula
“Wait!” I turned around a few times with my Kyoto Map, all wrinkled, folded a thousand times, chewed by a Nara Deer and torn in Hiroshima. I made the point of where we were. We should be in front of the address that I noted on the map days before, and I recognized it. I pointed with a finger a small building and I said “It’s there!” and we went in that direction.
I entered a shop and as soon as I stepped in a old Japanese lady said “Hello! It’s you Fran?”, as soon as I answered “Yes” she invited Lula to enter and to sit. It was too late, she was fell in my surprise.
I love musicals and anything that involve costumes and theatre. So, without telling her, I enrolled her into a “Geisha Evening School”. Of course it takes a lifetime to become a Geisha, but this was just a makeover night. They gave her instructions on the movements to do and then they started with the makeover to turn her into a Geisha that not even Japanese people could recognize as a foreigner. During the dress-up phase the nice ladies shown to Lula a multitude of Geisha dresses and Lula chosen one in shades of red and blue that was the dress for a Maiko, that means, a Geisha student. Actually, I think that she picked the best one! While dressing Lula up the Old Lady was happy that we chosen her and kept on asking us about Italy and about our trip in Japan, which is a country that we really love.
When the ladies finished with Lula’s make-up and dress-up, she was unrecognizable. I really thought of having a Geisha, I mean Maiko, in front of me. From a corner of the room appeared a photographer, and he invited her into the photographic studio in the lower floor. He gave her instructions about the pose and some info about the traditional gesture with traditional object. Like for example, the way to hold a rice paper fan and how to use a rice-paper umbrella. The only thing that I didn’t get much was the use of a drum to hold on a shoulder, it looked more like a Geisha shooting the cameraman with a RPG launcher than a drum player. Anyway, it had been so much interesting to learn all these information. Then started the best part. Mr. photographer and a driver took both me and Lula to a SUV and with it drove us to Gion, the Geisha Neighbourhood. Mr. Photographer, which actually spoke a good English, shown to be a good guide too as he took us across the most important places for the Geishas, like some temples, the street called “Maiko Town” where really live real Geishas until a temple where the Maikos, the Geisha students, light lanterns with their names over in order to propitiate their Geisha career. All the tour was made walking down the street still dressed up as a Maiko and the effect on people had been overwhelming. Tens of people stopped by to take pictures to her without noticing that she was European, and even some Japanese people stopped her to ask her some questions in Japanese as they really thought that she was a real Maiko! Lula couldn’t believe it and she had to use all her self-discipline to keep the Geisha composure, even if, she hardly wished to blow into a loud laughter! It had been a fantastic evening!
After the tour in traditional clothing we came back to the studio, where the Old Ladies undressed her and took all the make-up away. The Old Ladies had fun listening to our tale and that people mistaken Lula for a real Japanese girl, they were proud of their work!
History of Geisha
With paper-white skin, demur red-painted lips, glorious silk kimonos and elaborate jet-black hair, Japan's geisha are one of the most iconic images associated with the "Land of the Rising Sun." Who are these women? What is the history of their unique profession? Early Origins of the Geisha: The first geisha-like performers in recorded Japanese history are the saburuko, "those who serve," who waited tables, made conversation, and sometimes sold sexual favors. The higher-class saburuko danced and entertained at elite social events. Ordinary saburuko were mostly the daughters of families left destitute in the social and political upheavals of the seventh century, the period of the Taika Reform. In 794 CE, the Emperor Kammu moved his capital from Nara to Heian (near present-day Kyoto). Yamato Japanese culture flourished during the Heian period, which witnessed the establishment of a particular standard of beauty, as well as the origins of the samurai warrior class. Shirabyoshi dancers and other talented female artists were in high demand throughout the Heian era, which lasted until 1185. Medieval Precursors to the Geisha: By the 16th century, with the end of the Sengoku period of chaos, major Japanese cities developed walled "pleasure quarters." The courtesans or yujo who lived and worked in these districts were licensed prostitutes, and the Tokugawa government classified them according to their beauty and accomplishments. At the top of the yujo hierarchy stood the oiran, who were early kabuki theater actresses as well as sex-trade workers. Samurai were not permitted to partake of kabuki theater performances or the services of yujo by law; it was a violation of the class structure for members of the highest class (warriors) to mix with social outcasts such as actors and prostitutes. However, the idle samurai of unremittingly peaceful Tokugawa Japan found ways around these restrictions, and became some of the best customers in the pleasure quarters. Emergence of the Geisha Proper: With a higher class of customers, a higher style of female entertainer also developed in the pleasure quarters of Kyoto and other cities. Highly skilled in dancing, singing and playing musical instruments such as the flute and shamisen, the geisha did not rely on selling sexual favors for their income. All were trained in the art of conversation and flirting. Among the most prized were geisha with a talent for calligraphy, or those who could improvise beautiful poetry with hidden layers of meaning on the spot. History records that the first self-styled geisha was Kikuya, a talented shamisen player and prostitute who lived in Fukagawa around 1750. Throughout the late 18th and early 19th centuries, a number of other pleasure quarter residents began to make a name for themselves as talented musicians, dancers or poets, rather than simply as sex workers. The first official geisha were licensed in Kyoto in 1813, just fifty-five years before the Meiji Restoration, which ended the Tokugawa Shogunate and signaled the rapid modernization of Japan. Geisha did not disappear when the shogunate fell, despite the dissolution of the samurai class. It was World War II that really dealt a blow to the profession; almost all young women were expected to work in factories to support the war effort, and there were far fewer men left in Japan to patronize teahouses and bars. Although the hey-day of the geisha was short, the occupation still lives on today. Whereas traditional maiko, or apprentice geisha, began training at about age 6, today all Japanese students must stay in school through age 15. Thus, girls in Kyoto can begin their training at 16, while those in Tokyo usually wait until they are 18. Popular with tourists and business-people alike, modern-day geisha also support an entire industry. They provide work for artists in all of the tradition skills of music, dance, calligraphy, etc., who train the geisha. Geisha also buy top-of-the-line traditional products such as kimono, umbrellas, fans, shoes, etc., keeping craftsmen in work and preserving their knowledge. Source: http://asianhistory.about.com/od/japan/a/History-of-the-Geisha.htm |
Now we were again wandering across the Kyoto streets. Lula was excited for the evening and this surprise. Slowly we went back Gion and we crossed an area with water channels and nice laid back clubs, until we found a nice Sushi Restaurant.
When we stepped into the restaurant, seeing that it was already late, we were the only clients left. The very nice waiter suggested us what to order and what to avoid. While we were eating, seeing people in the restaurant, entered much more people, and perhaps, in those moments the cooks and waiters hates us for forcing them to stay in the restaurant longer. At the end of this tasty dinner we ordered one more Sakè bottle and we toasted for this nice day. For this fantastic day!
When we stepped into the restaurant, seeing that it was already late, we were the only clients left. The very nice waiter suggested us what to order and what to avoid. While we were eating, seeing people in the restaurant, entered much more people, and perhaps, in those moments the cooks and waiters hates us for forcing them to stay in the restaurant longer. At the end of this tasty dinner we ordered one more Sakè bottle and we toasted for this nice day. For this fantastic day!